Living and Working in South Korea: Advice for New Teachers

 This will most likely be one of my last post on "Gung-ho for Gunpo". I no longer live in Gunpo, and will be moving to Bucheon in September after a nice long summer vacation.

After 2 years maintaining this blog, it is time to move on. I don't know if I will start another blog, but I will put an update on this blog to redirect you if I choose that course. Any suggestions?

With that said, here are some words of advice for those seeking to live and work in Korea. 

(You might want to put some coffee on, this is a lengthy one...)

1. Be open-minded: 



     I've stressed this many times in the past, and I'll do it again. If you're planning to work in Korea or any other country you need to be willing to look beyond your comfort zone and own culture. Korea is a great place to live and work, but you will go crazy if you allow things you find bizarre or offensive ruin your experience. Don't let the things that annoy you ruin your trip. If you do, you will go crazy, and the more open-minded foreigners you hang out with will then think of you as a negative person. Then, BOOM! You're depressed, annoyed, and have few friends - and you're already planning your trip home.



2. Try new things: 

YUM!

     This is a must! Get out there and get lost on a bus. Go to a random subway stop and explore. I like to walk for exercise, so I would chose a different direction from my apartment in Sanbon and walk in one direction and explore the area. It's impossible to get lost enough that you won't run into a bus stop or subway station - and if you do - there are taxi's everywhere. By doing this, you get a better understanding of your area and what it has to offer. I've found some great parks, sight seeing locations, shops, and restaurants by doing this.
     Trying new foods goes without saying. Yes, some of it is scary or unpleasant. There are still foods that I cringe at when I see it that I can't eat. (grilled sparrows, sea worms, uncooked liver). There are a lot of vegetarians and vegans out there who come to Korea and complain about the lack of food for them. (see #1). Sorry, but if you're vegan it will be extremely difficult for you to eat most Korean foods. Even if they are vegetable soups - a lot of the broths contain animal products to some degree.
    Get yourself out of your comfort zone. You'll gain confidence in yourself and realize how strong and independent you can be. And you'll make great memories and meet new and interesting people along the way. Speaking of which...

3. Make new friends - especially Korean ones.
 

Two of my good friends: Min Young and Song Hoon

     Whether your teachers, friends through other people, random people in a bar, or a significant other - having someone who can speak the language is a plus. Don't USE these people - ask them for advise or their help and repay the favor!  Dinner, drinks or other small gifts are a great way to show your appreciation. I'm not a huge fan of the foreign community in Korea. Many people will attest to this, but expats are an unique breed of people. It seems most are either extroverts and full of energy, or social outcasts who have a strange and quirky side to them (and whom I tend to avoid).
     The younger crowd is usually right out of college. Teaching here is most likely their first full-time job, and the first time they are getting decent money. This crowd parties more often. They are the ones chasing skirts and drinking down their paycheck until 5am in Hongdae on Friday nights. Personally, I feel many are still stuck in college and have that frat-boy/sorority girl mentality.
     The mid-to-late twenties group is a little less outgoing. They've calmed down and maybe have been here for a few years. They may go out from time to time but it's usually for dinner and drinks once or twice a week. They've joined local organizations (gyms, dancing classes, sports groups) and are harder to get to know because they don't get out as much with the younger crowd.
     The older crowd is a smaller group and difficult to get to know. They're either married to a Korean, have a family, own or work for a company, or teach in higher education. You'll rarely see them except at mandatory training sessions for maybe your provincial employer. I personally am not friends with any expats over the age of 40 here. I've met a few in passing, but we seem to lead totally different lives. The 50 year old single guy who sits at the bars hitting on 22 year old Korean girls, and chats about he checked himself into an insane asylum after his divorce to a Albanian prostitute -- yeah, stay away from THAT guy.

4. Indulge in the comforts of home - but don't make it a habit:
 

Warning: May cause obesity

     I know the feeling. You're homesick. You just want some REAL pizza. It's been 6 months since you've had a decent taco. Please...don't come to Korea and go to Itaewon every weekend to get a pizza or hamburger. Don't watch only English movies because you don't like reading subtitles. And don't refuse to conform to society (like bowing) because you're not used to it.
    Again, try new things. Become Korean as much as is comfortable. Your teachers will comment how impressed they are that you like kimchi. Can you name 5 dishes you enjoy? Tell them - they'll be happy that you enjoy aspects of their culture. Tell them about the places you visit while you're here. You'll be surprised that many never leave their own province.
    Remember, you're visiting this country. Maybe you're only here for a year - EXPERIENCE IT as much as you can. Don't be that person who says - "I wish I had..." Then you'll look back and thing about how you spent your free weekend chowing down on KFC and then drinking at the club. You could have just done that in your home country. Instead, hike a mountain and have freshly made bibimbap made by some Buddhist monks. THAT's a story to tell when you go back home.

5. Be careful of your surroundings and use common sense:

     Korea is a very very safe place to be (besides that whole "North Korea wants to destroy us" thing -- trust me, it's not a daily concern here). I feel more safe in a city of 10 million Koreans than I do walking in a hick-town of 20,000 people back home. What I'm saying is that you should be careful of your surroundings. Be aware of where you are and who is around you. Ok, people DO get pick-pocketed on the subways - they do everywhere, but I've never been afraid of this, nor do I know anyone who has become a victim.
      You notice that drunk man on the subway with NO ONE sitting around him? Don't sit there. He's probably being touchy, verbally annoying or offensive, or is mentally ill. There is a reason no one is sitting near him!
     Are you hanging out with foreign friends and screaming and joking around on a bus? Don't be a jackass! Notice your surroundings! Buses are quiet places. You're getting dirty looks for a reason.
    Be respectful, and try to follow what the locals do. Just because you're in a group doesn't mean you can be rude or disrespectful to those around you. (Be especially mindful of the elderly and children).

Don't be these fools. 

Drinking and playing cards in the middle of the subway floor = not classy

[re-read #3]

6. Be smart financially - but don't be afraid to spend.
 
     You can make some decent money in Korea. You can easily save 50-60% of your yearly pay if you're good with your money. Granted, if you have outlandish student loans, or are making car payments on that vehicle that's sitting at home while you're here, you'll have a little trouble.
     I would guess that the average English teacher gets paid between $20,000-$22,000 a year. Usually, you get free housing and airfare. Most of your expenses will be utilities, phone/internet, and food. I lived in an office-tel that had high maintenance fees. ($140/mo) I know others who pay about $30.
     Phone/internet is between $30-80/mo. depending on phone types and services. I got hooked up with a Korean friend who owns an LG store, and got a Galaxy S2 smartphone for about $50/mo with a good plan. My internet is mostly open wi-fi, as I never bothered to get it hooked up in my apartment. I plan on getting in next year, and I hear the bundled packages with cable pretty cheap (under $70/mo).
     Food can vary significantly. I was dieting and lost about 30 lbs my first year. I ate a small breakfast, school lunch (about $2 a day), and a small dinner. My expenses were about $20 a week for groceries (excluding lunch fees which were taken out of my monthly paycheck). Going out on the weekends costs more. I would go out to eat a lot when I first arrived, as you need to meet new people. Later, you don't feel you need to go out as much and can start saving money. Eating Korean food is cheaper than western food. There are some restaurants in Itaewon and Hongdae serving burgers or ethnic foods that are about $10-20 a plate. Or you could eat at a small local Korean joing for $5 and get a bunch of sides. The choice is yours.
    You can live frugally, but don't be unhappy. It's ok to drop some serious coin on a good meal from time to time. Treat yourself on occasion. Want that new camera - get it! (You should definitely invest in a decent camera...but be aware - electronics aren't cheap in Korea) Spend some money on your vacation. (Thailand is amazing and cheap! Japan is extremely expensive and not as fun). Plan ahead and find some deals on airfare. Travel with friends and split hotel costs. Travel within Korea (Jeonju and Jeju are nice) You won't regret it.

7. Improve and Educate yourself:

     Take a class, join a gym, learn Korean. Improve yourself and you'll become more confident, happier, and better educated. As I mentioned before, I lost a lot of weight just by eating Korean food (aka the "Korean girlfriend diet") I like to believe my self-image has dramatically improved over the past 2 years. I've become much more active. I'll go bicycling, hiking, play badminton, been to plenty of art museums, concerts, and sporting events.
    Try to learn Korean - it's very difficult to learn. I still can barely get by. But I'm amazed looking back on how much I've learned. I recommend joining your local education office's Korean classes - even if it's just to meet people. Learning to read and pronounce the alphabet takes about an hour. It's VERY simple. Purchase some books. I recommend buying a children's picture book that kids use to learn English. You can improve your knowledge of objects that way.
     A great resource I've currently been using is Quizlet.com. Once you can read the language, you can Google a list of Korean verbs and adjectives and make your own flashcards and study that way. (use the prompt with Korean option when learning).
     There are a lot of language exchanges out there as well, English cafe's/clubs. Check out Toastmasters in the Gangnam or Hondae areas of Seoul (check out this blog post  "Lee's Korea Blog" for some good information).

   I've also said many times: DO YOUR RESEARCH before coming. You can learn a lot online. Some good blogs and sites to get you started are:

Chris In South Korea

Eat Your Kimchi

Brian in Jeollanam-do

Dave's ESL Cafe

The Waygook Effect

Waygook.org

Foreign/er Joy

GalbiJim

The Marmot's Hole

8. Don't be a teacher that does the bare the minimum:

You'll hear these words constantly...

     Finally, something about actually teaching in Korea! Some people are just not meant to be teachers. I've seen some horrid teachers who have never taught a day in their life, and just because they have a degree (which can be in anything by the way) now have the title of 'teacher'. I'm guilty of having vented about one co-worker in the past.... I've been teaching on and off for about 7 years. I think I have in this past year become decent at it.
     Teaching English in Korea is fairly easy - especially if you don't have to make your own lessons. Hagwon teachers tend to teach primarily from a book given to them by their employer. It is scripted and simple. You give the kids the vocab, they repeat after you, you have them  read and write, and assess them by your school's various standards.
      Public school is much different. Some teach from a book - others never, and some do a blending of the two. Creating your own lessons is an art itself. Imagine not having any guidance (my case), and being told to just make something up. You're lesson is going to be garbage. 90% of the time  your first few months will be a train-wreck every week unless you've really put some effort into your planning.
     There are some of teachers (younger ones without experience usually), who will throw together a lesson plan in 20 minutes. These are CRAP. The kids don't learn anything, the teacher gets frustrated, and no one is happy. Spend some time, learn how to make a good PPT presentation (it's simple really), and really plan out the lesson. (and make a plan B just in case it doesn't work out!)

      

Here are some tips: (and you can click here for my previous post on "ESL LESSON IDEAS"

a. Have an intro, some subject material (keep it simple), an assessment, and a game.  

b. Plan out your lesson step-by-step and deliberate over it. Does it makes logical sense? Can you reasonably get the students to do what you're asking? Do you have enough time? How can you get the students to put your subject material into practice? 

c. Be prepared. Before you even step foot in the class on day one, have a decent introductory lesson prepared. Explain your classroom rules and expectations (be reasonable). ENFORCE YOUR RULES. I make my students sign a small contract with my rules and tape it into their notebooks (which they MUST have in every class - it's one of the rules!). I have clear rewards and punishments. Each class gains points for good behavior and loses points for bad behavior. If one student is causing a lot of problems you can take points from the entire class. This will help self-regulate the class, as the majority will gang up against the trouble-maker. My rewards are simple. I give out "chance cards" to student who participate. Then can then play a simple game at the end of class and get a chance to win a prize. I also give out class rewards. This makes for a competitive environment within the grade levels. The class with the most points at the end of the semester wins a party. Also, if a class reaches a certain level of points, they are rewarded with free seating, or a movie day. 

d. Set the pace. Have something ready for the students the moment they walk into your door. One year I gave them a daily slang word. At the end of the semester, my students were still saying "Bling Bling" or "Bullcrap!" or "Peace out!". Last year, I did a daily idiom/metaphors/phrases. They remember these things - especially if you throw in some funny photos into a PPT. Phrases like "Take the gravy train" and "It costs an arm and a leg" were memorable ones. Take the time to explain it well! As long as you have something for the students to write into their notebooks when they walk in, it will take away a lot of wasted time to get them to settle down later. (You can also use quotes, trivia questions, strange words, or simple puzzles) - you can also make your own puzzles on sites like Discovery Puzzle Maker. I love this site. 

e. Have fun. No one wants to just sit and listen. Get the students motivated. My students loved games, and so did I. I would quiz them almost every class (which they can earn chance cards for right answers), but I also played games like Scattergories, Vocabulary Connect 4, Sentence Battleship, Guess Who, MadLibs, and so many more. Check out Dave's ESL Cafe for game and lesson plan ideas for all ages.

9. Make and impact, not just an impression:

     I was told this by my university class president one year and never forgot it. Your time in Korea may be short, and you should make a good impression to the people you meet. But maybe an impression isn't enough. An impression is the experience on how someone perceives you. An impact is the effect you actually have. You can be perceived as a kind person by the way you walk or talk. Or you can affect another person by DOING something kind for that person. That's a big difference.

Lastly,


10. Smile. A friendly smile goes a long way in a foreign land.


To my few loyal readers: Thanks for reading!

"Noodlicious"

My contract is officially over and I've decided to take some vacation time. I decided on a short weekend in Osaka for visa purposes. It turned out to be the cheapest deal. I recommend looking into Jeju Air if you're going from Incheon to Osaka. You can find some cheap tickets in comparison since it's a low-cost carrier.

The hotel I booked last year turned out to be booked, and I was forced to try something new. I went with a traditional ryokan (旅館) hotel on my first night. Ryokan's have tatami-matted rooms and communal baths, but for a little extra you can get your own bathroom (which I did). I stayed at the Yamatoya Honten in Nipponbashi, not far from Namba and Shinsaibashi in central Osaka. In the end, it was cheaper than the hotel I was in last year, was twice the size, more quiet, and more comfortable. The staff was excellent and very friendly as well. I highly recommend it for a comfortable, quiet, and relaxing night. It's not far from the main shopping areas and right near the river.

You can see some cool nightlife: (click the photo for a large version)

Riverfront at night (HDR) 

I also did a little sight seeing and a lot of walking around. I visited Osaka Castle again, but it wasn't as nice as the first time I went last year. It was hot, and with the trees in full bloom there wasn't as much opportunity for nice photos without trees in the way of the structure.

The highlight of my trip this time around was visiting the Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Museum. If you like to see how things are made and the history surrounding them - this is the place for you. It's a small musuem, but free - and mostly in Japanese. However, there are audio guides available for a low fee. I made a video of my tour and what to expect. I hope you enjoy it:

"What defines beauty?"

I've posted multiple times (see here and here) about image issues and plastic surgery and how people want to be beautiful by doing all sorts of crazy things to their bodies.

and how messing with your body can be a horrible thing sometimes...

A young film-maker Kelley Katzenmeyer created this interesting look at Korean education. Specifically in this link is discussed what beauty means to Korean high school girls.

I also recently saw this short article/video on CNN about plastic surgery in South Korea and how Asians want the "western look". The article focuses on a young 12 year old girl (Min-kyong) who wants plastic surgery because she considers her eyes to be too small.

She lacks confidence, explains Min-kyong's mother, a problem she hopes will be solved when her pre-teen undergoes plastic surgery, to westernize her eyes.
"If I get the surgery, my eyes will look bigger," explains Min-kyong. Everyone, she says, points out her small eyes. It's why she doesn't think she's a pretty girl. A surgery which cuts a fold into her eyelid to create a double fold will widen her eyes. The effect will also be to give her a slightly more western look.

Her mother, Jang Hyu-hee, says her daughter didn't ask for the surgery.
"I'm having her do it," says Jang, "because I think it'll help her. This is a society where you have to be pretty to get ahead. She's my only daughter." (emphasis, mine)

But surgery doesn't stop at the eyes, nose, cheekbones, and other body parts. It's become more than cosmetic on the exterior. It's become a little too extreme.

A global ideal doesn't stop at the face, says dental surgeon Jung Hak. Dr Jung says he's been fighting a trend. Korean mothers who have been bringing in their toddlers to have the muscle under the tongue that connects it to the bottom of the mouth surgically SNIPPED. (again, emphasis is mine)

The belief, explains Dr Jung, is that it will help a Korean speak English more clearly. People from the Asia Pacific region have difficulty in pronouncing the "L" sound, says Dr Jung. But he calls the surgery, if it's only for pronunciation, misguided, and caused by the hyper-competitive drive in Korea.
"For 10 years, there's been this crazy drive for early English education. Mothers long for their kids to have better English pronunciation," says Dr Jung.

What makes a person beautiful? Are these surgeries worth it in Korea? What do you think? 

Chuncheon

Last week we took a afternoon trip to the city of Chuncheon. The city is located east of Seoul and is the capital of Gangwon province. It is easily accessible by train and bus, about 1.5-2 hours from Seoul.

Thankfully our friend Binah has a friend who was willing to drive us instead. Assah!

We had planned to visit Lake Soyang which was created by daming the Soyang River. It is a huge dam that reminded me of the Hoover Dam (but probably half the size).

We were also in the mood for Chuncheon's most famous dishes. Chuncheon Dalk-galbi (a chicken dish that is either served grilled, or stir-fried with cabbage, rice cake (tteok) and other vegetables). It's one of my favorite dishes in Korea, and I had high expectations. Unfortunately, the restaurant we chose served us basically grilled chicken that we wrapped in lettuce leaf. Not what I'm used to, and not as delicious in my opinion.

The other dish Chuncheon is known for is makguksu. This is a cold soup of buckwheat noodles, similar to naengmyeon. I've had this in Gunpo as well, and I wasn't a huge fan of the noodles. I found them difficult to swallow and was suffering the begining of the flu when I was forced to eat them with teachers. This time around, I actually enjoyed them a little more. I found that the noodles were lighter and easier to swallow this time around. It's still not something I would crave for like dalkgalbi, but it was decent.


After lunch we visited Lake Soyang. You have to ferry across the lake to reach the mountain hiking area popular with tourists. It isn't too far of a hike to the buddhist temple that most people frequent.

The mountainous views are splendid, there are plenty of small restaurants along the way to grab some pajeon (scallion pancake) and makkoli (rice wine) as well. Along the way up, you will pass a beautiful waterfall, and can enjoy the clean mountain air.  If you plan on visiting make sure you note the time the last ferry departs, as the line can get really long. It departs early as well. The last ferry out was listed as 5:30pm, which is realtively early in my opinion. But hey, this isn't Seoul...


We planned on visiting the Jade Garden and forest near the city, but ran out of time as they are not open too late....maybe next time (but there are just too many places to see still). Instead we kicked back with some more makguksu and pajeon for dinner along with a couple bottles of makkoli. All in all, a pretty good day.



Here are some photos I took:

Jeju

I've recently taken a couple of small trips. A few weeks ago I finally visited Jeju-do, a large island off the southern coast, which is commonly referred to as South Koreas "Hawaii".

Jeju has a long history which you can read about here.

The weather wasn't very cooperative, between bouts of rain and fog, I saw some sunshine, and experienced some awesome things. There was so much to see and the tour only covered so much. I can't wait to go back and visit some other things I didn't get to. Tickets are relatively cheap, you can get them for as little as $20 sometimes. Our package was booked late, and we ended up paying almost $300 per person including flight/hotel/tour for 2 days.

You can find your own way for much cheaper in the off season, I'm sure.

The trip was a tour package - all in Korean, so I can't tell you too much about it. I'll let the photos do most of the work:

First stop: A horse show. The performers did riding tricks, and acted out a battle with Mongolia.

 

 

 

 

Next we stopped at a garden and buffet restaurant (which was amazingly good), and had a little time to tour the garden as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also stopped at O'Sulloc, a tea company that specializes in greent tea. We had a brief moment to take a photo of the tea fields and sample some green tea.

 

Jeju is famous for it's oranges (hallabongs) We visited an orange grove where they explained how to tell if an orange is ripe and sweet. Hint: if it feels hard around the diameter of the stem, it's not sweet.

 

 Next we visited the southern coast of the island, and walked along the edge of the ocean and took a short cruise that toured it as well. Too bad it was a little foggy, off the coast, but still beautiful.

 

For dinner, we ate some fish stew(I can't recall the name) but apparently it's pretty famous in Jeju. I thought it was decent.

a

The following day, we took a tour to Eco-Land (I wouldn't recommend this, especially on Parents Day). There were throngs of pushy elderly people, and Eco-Land was boring in general...I think they all just wanted to ride the train around the park.

 

 

After a Chinese cultural performance at Sam Guk Ji land, we headed to a traditional village  (I won't post photos of Sam Guj Ji Land because it was really corny and boring) - besides their mask changing act...which was kind of cool.

The village still has people living there. They survive by selling products like honey, berry juice, and ground horse bone pellets that are supposedly good for your bones and fights osteoporosis. I tried some, but my bones feel the same. ^^

 

 

The highlight of the trip by far was the horseback riding experience. I haven't been on a horse in ages, so this was rather enjoyable. Plus, they are so darn cute.

 

 

 

We had a foal following us around .. she was cute.

 

We were only alloted about one hour to visit Ilchul Land next, which is not enough time. Ilchul Land has a cool cave created from old lava flows, and some beautiful gardens - and even a cool cactus house.

 

 

 

 

Towards the end of the tour we visited Yongduam Rock (Dragons Head Rock), which becomes less and less dragon-esque the longer you stare at it. We stayed at the rock for a while in order to see it at night, which was said to be the best time. Unfortunately the area was overcome by dense fog, and you couldn't see much. But it did look eerie and cool that way.

 

 

 

 Too much fog...

 

 Our last day on Jeju wasn't a happy one. It started off like this near our hotel:

 

yay!

Then we traveled back to the central southern area of the island to see Jungmun Beach, supposedly one of the nicer sights on the island.

We ended up seeing this before having to head back to the airport:

 

Jeju is totally worth going to if you have time to travel around. Again, we do plan to go back in the late summer or early fall. Hopefully we can see a lot more and take our time to enjoy ourselves rather than be hustled around by a tour group.